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THE ADDITION OF SOILS AND MANURES

Some new compounds, called soil conditioners, will help greatly in breaking down heavy soils that have only a very thin layer of topsoil. They are expensive but, actually, less costly, more effective, and longer lasting than elaborate methods of trenching. They must be mixed with the soil thoroughly and drainage will be needed still.

Moisture containing soil-derived plant food is absorbed in very dilute solution by root hairs, which form just behind the growing point of the root. They are short-lived, but while the root is actively growing they are being constantly replaced. If root-growth is checked they cease to form, and so the supply of moisture and food absorbed by that root is cut off. Should a growing root reach an air pocket its development is checked immediately. In very loose soil this may happen simultaneously to many roots; then the plant dies. If only one root is affected, Nature comes to the rescue and a root is sent in another direc­tion. Plant energy is expended in its production, time is lost, and the whole plant receives a check.

For the foregoing reasons it is very important that all deep cultivation should be completed some weeks before planting. Then the soil has time to settle slowly but firmly, often with the help of rain. When time does not permit this, watering and rolling of the soil must be substituted, but it should be done only if in a great hurry.

Full of air pockets, freshly cultivated soil will soon sink several inches, and in an uneven manner. When fresh organic matter, vegetable or animal, has been worked into it, the shrinkage will be increased as the material rots. Planting should never be done before the soil has settled, for there is risk of the subsidence damaging the roots. Subsidence will be less with added compost, cow manure, blood-and-bone, or fine bone-meal than with looser material, such as stable manure and unrotted vegetation.

Fine bone-meal can be added in any soil preparation with advantage to the intended plants and without interfering in any way with the work. It adds, in even distribution, an organic substance that will feed the plants for many years. Small quantities of other manures are sometimes dug into the upper eight or ten inches of soil after the major part of the preparation has been completed, but this usually does more harm than good by making the soil too rich for the new roses that are to be planted later, unless it is done at least four months before the planting is due to be done, in which case it would be helpful.

Frequent diggings keep down weeds, help in settling and levelling, establish aeration, mix evenly the constituent soils, and produce an upper layer of good friable soil.

Never add manure within a few weeks of planting time; slow-rotting matter will need several months; cow manure should be allowed at least six weeks, blood-and-bone at least a month, and fine bone-meal at least three weeks. They should all be used sparingly. Water will take food down to the deeper roots.

All these instructions may appear very formidable, but they cover all types of soils. Most soils are of the more easily pre­pared types. Beds need no more preparation for roses than for any other plants-much less than for some. In most areas it has become customary to have the level of flower-beds above that of lawns and paths. In very sandy parts they can well be lowered. Perth gardeners often have bed surfaces as much as six inches below their lawn levels, which prevents water from running off them.