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ROSE CALENDAR - Part 3

1st to 3rd February. This and subsequent periods are dis­cussed at length in Chapter XIV. If steady blooming is desired the soil will not have been allowed to become dry, and manur­ing and continuance of regular watering, together with routine removal of blooms, will constitute the main needs in manage­ment of the roses for the remainder of the year. If a heavy crop of autumn blooms is the objective the soil will be fairly dry and must be heavily watered, then manured and watered regularly thereafter. The manuring in either case should be a little heavier than that usually given in August. Do not dig it in. See that secateurs are in good order. Prepare new beds before mid-March.

5th to 10th February. Carefully examine plants for dead or sickly wood and remove it. Water regularly.

10^th to 16^th February. Those who reside in the cooler areas and desire good blooms in mid April must do their summer trimming. Roses in climates warmer than that of Melbourne will grow faster and should be trimmed later than in Mel­bourne, for which these dates are arranged. Sydney and Auckland growers should wait another week. Perth, northern New South Wales, and southern Queensland will need to do their summer trimming nearly a month later. Northern Queensland growers can have roses at any time of the year, but must allow less than eight weeks from trimming time to blooming. Southern Tasmania and the colder mountain areas of the mainland will have an earlier onset of winter and growers there must trim early, allowing for slower growth and earlier blooming. Trimming in any climate can be fol­lowed by a spraying with a preparation to reduce the incid­ence of autumn mildew. Secure new climbing canes to sup­ports.

16^th February to 15^th March. Where plants have been summer-trimmed there will be very few blooms, and most of them will be the result of your having missed cutting back some small branch. Growth will commence and later become vigorous. Then flower-buds will form. Where little or no trimming has been done there will usually be a good showing of colourful roses. In a cool season they are delightful, but a few hot days can ruin the whole crop. Watch for early mildew. Spray with wettable or colloidal sulphur as a preventive; it is less likely to appear if one has been regular in spraying with TMTD. Add BHC or E605 to kill aphides or caterpillars. Use Alboleum for established mildew. Keep the beds damp and well mulched. Exhibitors may add a little more manure. Pre­pare new beds before it is too late. Perth and Brisbane rose-growers should do their summer trimming.

15th to 31st March. Early mildew is almost certain, and con­trol measures are essential-unless the grower chooses only varieties that are highly mildew-resistant. A few odd blooms of poor quality will be opening. Prune winter-blooming varieties.

1st to 8th April. Soil-stirring, watering, anti-aphis and anti-mildew spraying. No spraying should be done later than this period except in the warm zones where the roses bloom later, and so, if in doubt, err on the safe side by doing it between the named dates. New beds can still be prepared, but planting in them must be left till later than usual.

8th to 30th April. Plenty of blooms of glorious colour, the best of the whole year and unmarred by thrips. Usually calm weather. Autumn blooms of some varieties are smaller than the spring blooms, but most roses last longer at this time; they are more brilliant and are spread over a longer period. This again is rose-show time. Go to the shows, take your friends, discuss with other growers the habits of roses you do not know well, choose varieties to plant in the coming winter, and place your order with a reliable nurseryman, duplicating chosen varieties to make your list up to your required number. Rose-growers in tropical Queensland find this their best planting time.