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ROSE CALENDAR - Part 2 |
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1st to 30th September. Roses will be growing strongly. Watch carefully for all pests, especially aphides, mildew, and caterpillars, and at first sign of any of them apply the appropriate spray. Water well and do not be misled by light showers of rain. Wind can cause a lot of damage at this time. Early-blooming varieties will be rewarding us in the cooler areas, especially some of our own Australian R. gigantea hybrids; in the warmer areas, such as Brisbane and Townsville, there will be an abundance of blooms from Hybrid Teas, and rose shows will be held. The mixed spray used in July could be repeated with advantage.
1st to 20th October. Keep the plants clean of pests and well watered at regular intervals. Keep the surface soil loose. Watch for wilt, unusual in recent years, but a great potential menace. Disbud. If you intend exhibiting blooms, covering should be commenced between 15 th and 20th October. Hot dry winds. Thrips appear, sometimes in tremendous numbers. Never fail to spray with E605, Systox, Lindane, or DDT at this time. Do not leave it later than this to commence spraying each ten to fourteen days with a TMTD preparation, such as Thiotox. As it is compatible with E605 and BHC, it will save time and work if a mixed spray is used, wherever these insecticides are indicated. 20th to 31st October. The year's biggest flush of blooms in most parts of Australia and New Zealand. Roses that bloom only once a year do so in springtime. Climbers will be covered with flowers. The season for rose shows in the cooler areas is the last few days of October. Thrips can ruin a whole spring crop of blooms; see that they do not spoil yours. Never allow faded blooms to remain on plants. In areas where roses bloom early they will be breaking into fresh growth again at this time. 1st to 10th November. Still lots of roses. Cutting blooms either for use or after they have faded must be done correctly and regularly. Do not manure. Water regularly. 10th November to 10th December. The Wichuraiana hybrids will be displaying masses of colour. Other roses will have completed their spring blooming, been cut back, and be in strong growth again. They can be sprayed as a preventive against black spot and mildew-there are no blooms to spoil. No manure, plenty of water. Watershoots will be appearing. A mulch may be applied. In the cold districts the main spring blooming occurs in the early part of this period, and in the very warm areas the second blooming will commence. 10th December to 10th January. The rate of growth of the roses increases with the longer hours of sunshine and the higher average daily temperatures. The blooms will be brilliantly coloured but small and fleeting. Flowers for indoor use must be gathered as fairly tight buds, handled carefully, and the stems re-cut under water. Draw any badly placed watershoots to the outer part of the plant. By 10th January you must decide which of two courses you prefer to follow for the remainder of the year: (a) a continuance of steady bloom-ing in moderate numbers, which will decrease in late March and become sparse by mid April; or {b) sacrificing blooms from mid-February until early April with a big flush of blooms of good colour and size in mid-April. In climates warmer than that of Melbourne these dates will all be later. In Perth the autumn flush of bloom is timed for mid-May. Sunburn can cause extensive damage if the soil becomes too dry. Thrips will usually still be present, but seldom do any harm because blooms open too quickly. Mildew and aphides will cause very little bother. Black spot may be causing defoliation; repeat TMTD sprayings at regular intervals, in any case. Do not cut blooms with long stems. Climbing canes will be growing to a length sufficient to necessitate tying them to supports to prevent their becoming damaged. Tie them vertically until May or June. |
