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LIQUID MANURES |
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Liquid manures were once widely used, and have recently regained popularity. In most instances they are applied by exhibitors to force better-quality blooms. Application is useless less than twelve to fourteen days from the date on which the blooms are required. They should contain large proportions of nitrogen and should always be applied, very much diluted, to wet soil, and be followed by further watering. The most common substances used for making liquid manures are (a) cow manure, either alone or with potassium sulphate, bird-droppings, blood-and-bone manure, or soot; (b) bird-droppings alone; (c) blood-and-bone manure alone; (d) any of the former with chemicals added, or (e) inorganic fertilizers.
Liquid manures made wholly or in part from animal excreta are the best, for they contain more of the minor plant food elements. Their only disadvantages are that they become alkaline and very offensive in odour on keeping, as a result of bacterial action. These changes can be slowed by keeping the barrel cool and dark-in shade and covered by a heavy sack. The alkalinity and odour can be overcome by adding acids. It should be done slowly while the liquid is kept well stirred and frequently tested lest too much be added. Litmus paper is not a very sensitive indicator of acidity or alkalinity, but it is sufficiently accurate for this purpose and is easy and simple to use. A small book of sheets costs a few pence. Blue litmus turns pink if placed in acid solutions; pink litmus turns blue if placed in alkaline solutions; blue litmus will become mauve on dipping it in slightly acid liquid manure. The best acids to use are firstly a little nitric acid followed by phosphoric acid until the manure is no longer alkaline. Both are inexpensive; neither contains any harmful chemical element. Nitric acid will add nitrogen and phosphoric acid will add phosphorus. Care should be exercised in handling concentrated forms of acids, for they will burn clothes or skin. Very little is needed at a time in a barrel of manure. An adaptation of Sprengel's suction pump has been found most useful in spreading liquid manures. This consists of a piece of brass tubing with a screw adapter to attach it to the hose jet, with a second tube inserted into the brass tubing at right angles. To this side tube about six feet of plastic or thick walled rubber tubing is attached. The other end of the rubber
Fig. 15. Hose attachment for spreading liquid manures. A, screw attachment; B, rubber tube. tube is placed in a bucket of diluted liquid manure; the water is turned on and as it rushes through the main tube it slowly sucks liquid from the bucket, greatly diluting it as it spreads it on the garden. If a fairly weak solution is placed in the bucket, one need never fear that any damage will be done even by hosing over the young foliage and buds. The jet may be used at the same time for washing off aphis and dust. This method will obviate the back-breaking task of carrying heavy cans of water, will save a great amount of time, and can be done frequently and safely. The device is very simple, and can be made at small cost by any plumber. Mixed manures can be used, spread direct on the soil. The best of these combinations are (a) cow dung with blood-and-bone manure; (b) cow dung with bird-droppings; (c) cow dung with horse dung collected from stalls; (d) bird-droppings with ashes and bone-meal. Dolomite can be added, with advantage, to any of these mixtures or to compost if the soil is too acid. Manures may be applied in small quantities at almost any time, but with greatest advantage just after winter pruning and about two weeks before summer trimming, when good heavy dressings should be given. Probably more is needed in the summer application than in winter, for roses will give excellent spring blooms even if left wholly unfed. Very little permanent benefit results from subsoiling or trenching unless organic matter is added to improve the physical soil texture. In early summer a mulch of organic matter is useful. It should not be highly nitrogenous lest it force very soft growth. It keeps the soil at a steady temperature, helps to conserve moisture, and facilitates the absorption of rain, or water artificially applied-all of which factors help roses to grow steadily and resist disease. The idea has been instilled into the minds of many rose-growers that immediately a plant shows signs of weakness the first necessity is heavy feeding, and a dressing of blood-and-bone or sulphate of ammonia is duly given. Only strong healthy plants can take such food even in moderate quantities. In no circumstances must a weak or sickly plant be given manure of any kind. The drainage should be tested, and if found efficient, heavy waterings are the best treatment for the plant. It should always be remembered that manuring is only one phase, albeit a very important one, but healthy soil conditions, adequate drainage, and the maintenance of optimum soil moisture form the foundation of success. Few roses are killed by inadequate manuring. Parts of this chapter are rather technical and will interest some readers merely for reference purposes. Not all manures discussed will be available; for instance, the country gardener will rarely have seaweed, the city gardener finds animal manures increasingly difficult to obtain, and dolomite is much better known, more easily obtained and more widely used in Sydney than in Melbourne. If a gardener can grow good annuals, vegetables, and shrubs he can grow good roses. |
