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Then take another trench three feet wide from the line of the first trench and turn the topsoil of the second trench on top of the subsoil of the other. This will leave the surface level considerably higher than it was originally. Small air
pockets will have caused this, and are very helpful in increasing soil fertility provided the soil soon settles and obliterates them. Continue thus to the end of the plot and then use the topsoil that was first removed to fill in the last trench.
Deep sandy soils should always be trenched. A layer of retentive soil, such as clay, or better still, heavy loam, at least six inches thick, should be inserted at a depth of two feet. The soil superficial to this should be well mixed with heavy surface loam, and compost or cow manure. Near the sea-coast, washed seaweed is handy and may be freely used, together with weeds and vegetable refuse. They should not be buried deeper than one foot.
The artificial subsoil steadies percolation, and so maintains a more even degree of soil moisture and temperature. It will save a lot of plant food from leaching away. Costs of water and manures will be greatly reduced by this initial expense and work. Sometimes light sandy soil deceptively rests upon a dense impermeable clay; this will need artificial drainage.
The best soil for rose-growing is a loam that is rather heavy but sufficiently friable to render it capable of being worked into a fine tilth. If it sets hard when dry, and is greasy when wet, add gypsum, dolomite, or a little lime and some organic matter. Otherwise it will not only be hard to work, but it will be unproductive, for its physical structure is unsuitable for root-growth. Use half a pound to one pound of gypsum, dolomite, or lime to the square yard. Over-liming can be very harmful.
If this good soil rests on stiff retentive clay either do not trench at all or be quite certain that the drainage is efficient. It is better to have shallow cultivation than pits in which stagnant soil-moisture gathers, for then conditions that are toxic to plant life will develop. A good drainage scheme accompanied by trenching will greatly improve the physical condition and general fertility of the soil. The depth of good soil will be increased as well as the amount of available plant food and moisture. Good soil aeration will be ensured. The digging of a deep hole for planting each rose in such a soil is equivalent to trenching without draining.
Should there be little or no surface soil overlaying heavy clay subsoil, a good workable layer must be created at least one foot deep. Remove any surface soil present and heap it on one side. Remove the next six inches, the upper part of the subsoil, and heap it elsewhere. Remove the next six inches and cart it away. Obtain some good light to medium loam and stir some into the soil deep to that already removed. Mix a goodly proportion of it with the subsoil that has been saved and place the mixture back in the bed. Some bonemeal, compost, or vegetable matter could be added with advantage. Next replace the old surface soil. If the bed is not high enough add more loam to the top. Dig well several times after completion. These beds will always need good drainage, but will grow excellent roses. They probably entail even more work and expense in preparation than those in very light sand, but they give better
results.
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