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BUD SELECTION - Part 2 |
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Before taking the buds, cut back the leaves so that about half an inch of each leaf-stem or petiole remains attached to the stem. This will serve as a handle by which to manipulate the bud.
The bud is removed from the budding-wood with a slicing cut from about half an inch above the eye to about the same distance below it. The piece removed is called the bud-shield, or bud-plate. It most commonly contains a thin shaving of wood in the concave side of the bark. Many propagators leave this in position, but the majority remove it if the bud is mature, and they seem to get the better results. The removal is done by inserting the thumbnail or fingernail between the wood and the bark at the upper end and peeling the wood from the bark. Separation should never be done from below upwards, for that would increase the probability of injury to the bud itself. Alternatively it can be done by very lightly pinching the bud-shield between the thumb and forefinger. If, after the removal of the greater part of the wood, a tiny remnant is left on or near the inside aspect of the bud, leave it there. If a depression is visible on the inside of the bark the growing point has been pulled out, the bud has been spoilt, and a new bud must be prepared. Buds must not be allowed to shrivel or be kept in water; they must be inserted as soon as possible.
Fig. 5. 1. Growth-bud of rose. 2. Bud-shield removed. A, side view; B, front view. 3. Bud-shield, side view. 4. Removal of shaving of wood. 5. Inner surface of bud-shield, ready for insertion, showing the eye intact. 6. R. multiflora seedling stock, showing budding incision below the "collar". 7. Standard stock, showing the usual dual budding. 8. Cutting stock. 9. Flaps of incision raised. 10. Bud-shield inserted. 11. Bud-shield tied in with raffia. 12. Raffia cut. A, too near the bud; B, correctly. |
