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PRUNING BUSHES AND STANDARDS - Part 2 |
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Most of the branches of any established rose plant will not be watershoots of the current season's growth. The best of them have already been selected. From them it will be necessary to cut superfluous laterals. Probably, too, there will be obvious loss of vigour in the whole branch beyond a certain strong lateral. In that case, remove the part that is losing vigour. Only good, strong, healthy, vigorous growth will remain; this must be shortened.
This is where the term "light pruning" applies, not to the number of branches removed, but to the cutting of those branches that are retained. Simply shorten them to a good well-developed growth-bud, which points outwards and upwards. If in any doubt as to which of two buds to choose, always err on the safe side by cutting to the upper one. There is no difference whatever in the manner of pruning bushes and standards. The latter should be regarded merely as bushes budded on a longer stock. Most standards have two buddings; twelve months after planting, both of them will have grown, but usually one is more advanced than the other. The weaker budding should be removed with a saw. If it is the upper one, the saw-cut is made through the stock just above the lower budding and in a sloping direction downwards and away from the budding. If the lower budding is the weaker, it should be removed by a vertical saw-cut. Most growers favour light pruning of newly-planted roses after they have shot. A cut is made to a bud that is pointing outwards, low down on the branches. After a rose has grown for one year it is due for its first conventional pruning. The growth present at the time of planting will usually have become weak and been superseded by other base-shoots. Its removal is the most important part of the pruning of such a plant. |
